Woodworking Tips
Woodworking Tips Index
Storing Lumber, Part 2
This is the second of two parts on storing lumber. Last week, I mentioned that we shouldn't store lumber on concrete garage or basement floors, that attics work well but may be much drier than your workshop, and that wherever you get your lumber and however it's stored, you should always give it some "adjustment" time in your shop before you start cutting and joining.

Here are some other ideas. If you're going to build a wall rack to store lumber horizontally, or stack your boards on blocks on the floor, be sure the boards are well supported along their length. To prevent boards from distorting from the weight of wood piled on top, I'd recommend that you space the shelf brackets or floor blocks no more than 32" apart.

For short pieces of wood, you might try storing them on end in a box. This takes up less space and you can tell at a glance how long the pieces are. Then you won't have to sort through the pile to find one the right length.

Plywood usually gets stacked on edge -- it takes up less space that way. I try to make it stand up as close to vertical as possible (and off the floor, too). Too much lean can bend it, especially if other sheets are stacked with it. And if it's left that way long enough, it may not flatten out again. Of course you can store plywood flat, but it does take up more space. To avoid distortion, be sure it's well-supported.

One other suggestion. I like to write the type and size on the end grain of most pieces of wood and plywood. I don't do this all the time, but when the pile gets high or the cut-off box gets full, it can save a lot of time when you're searching for a piece to fit a particular need.

Go to Tip #61
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