This is the second of two parts on
storing lumber. Last week, I mentioned that we shouldn't store lumber on
concrete garage or basement floors, that attics work well but may be much drier
than your workshop, and that wherever you get your lumber and however it's
stored, you should always give it some "adjustment" time in your shop
before you start cutting and joining.
Here are some other ideas. If you're going to build a wall rack to store lumber
horizontally, or stack your boards on blocks on the floor, be sure the boards
are well supported along their length. To prevent boards from distorting from
the weight of wood piled on top, I'd recommend that you space the shelf
brackets or floor blocks no more than 32" apart.
For short pieces of wood, you might try storing them on end in a box. This
takes up less space and you can tell at a glance how long the pieces are. Then
you won't have to sort through the pile to find one the right length.
Plywood usually gets stacked on edge -- it takes up less space that way. I try
to make it stand up as close to vertical as possible (and off the floor, too).
Too much lean can bend it, especially if other sheets are stacked with it. And
if it's left that way long enough, it may not flatten out again. Of course you
can store plywood flat, but it does take up more space. To avoid distortion, be
sure it's well-supported.
One other suggestion. I like to write the type and size on the end grain of
most pieces of wood and plywood. I don't do this all the time, but when the
pile gets high or the cut-off box gets full, it can save a lot of time when
you're searching for a piece to fit a particular need.
Go to Tip #61 |
